Pictures from Summit Day

GJN sucking on oxygen approaching the summit.


















Moving from the South Summit towards the top of Mt. Everest.













On the Summit Ridge nearing the top of Mt. Everest.













Another image of the approach to the top....nice shot of the famous Hilary Step.













On the top....looking back down the Summit Ridge.













Standing at the top of the world....with prayer flag monument in the background.













Christie, Parker & Hale (CPH) offering legal services at the top of the world.













A final view of the top of Mt. Everest on my way down....the wind appears to be returning.

Photos from above Base Camp

Base Camp with the Khumbu Ice Fall in the background.













Descending through the Kumbu Ice Fall.














Another view of the Khumbu Ice Fall.














GJN descending through the Khumbu Ice Fall.



















Crossing one of many ladders in the Khumbu Ice Fall.















Another ladder crossing in the Khumbu Ice Fall.














Camp One, above the Khumbu Ice Fall and located on the Western CWM.













Large crevasse, above Camp One on the Western CWM.













Another view of the Khumbu Ice Fall.














Approaching Camp 4.

Sad News That No One Back Home Can Relate To.....

I am sitting in the Hong Kong airport waiting for my LA flight.  At the beginning of the trip, there were two groups using the guide service.  The first was the climbers and the second was the trekkers.  Each group had their own guides.  The head guide for the trekkers was a sweet kid full of knowledge/information and enthusiasm.  All the trekkers loved her and her zest for life infected us all in a positive way and make the trek into Base Camp more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise. 

After completing her duties as the trek guide on Everest, she moved on to Denali where she was set to guide one of the ten (or so) Alpine Ascents expeditions in Alaska.

This morning, I learned that she had fallen and died somewhere on Denali.  I find myself angered, frustrated and sad.  To learn that someone has died, who I had come to know and who was so full of life, leaves me feeling quite empty inside....it's a hell of think to die so young.....to lose all one has....and to lose all the things one would have had.

A lot of people seem to die prematurely on these mountains I climb.  I'm beginning to think it is time to retire from this hobby of mine.....I am looking forward to getting home.  I've been away too long. 

Back in Kathmandu

We left Base Camp on May 22....spent three days trekking back to Lukla (i.e., the Khumbu Valley departure point....and the intersection of the mechanized world with the non-mechanized world of the Khumbu Valley).  We were once again fortunate with the weather and were able to fly into Kathmandu on May 25 without experiencing the common weather delays everyone had warned us about. 

One of the first things I realized was that with an abundance of electricty comes the availabililty of refrigeration/freezers, and with the availability of this technology comes ice cream. 

Also, I have begun to wonder if anyone back home is missing their clothes....because the garments I have here certainly do not fit my body.   We were warned that we would lose weight regardless of how much food we ate up on the mountain.  According to the scale here at the hotel (i.e., Yak & Yeti), I weigh 158 lbs.....which means I lost approximately 17-18 pounds.  I find it ironic that we all arrived strong and fit....and by the time summit day actually arrived, we reached the top of Mt. Everest while being at our weakest physical condition of the entire trip.

Another update on my health.  As many of you know, I almost missed out on a summit bid because I developed a relatively mild case of pulmonary edema which ultimately was treated successfully by the Base Camp doctors....and I was able to "go for the summit" with the aid of additional medication designed to prevent the return of the pulmonary edema....all of which worked perfectly according to plan.  However, upon return to Base Camp, the pulmonary edema returned...which made the trek out of the area a little more interesting than expected.  Ultimately, it was successfully treated again by the Base Camp doctors...and now I simply had the remnants of the Khumbu Cough and/or a chest cold. 

Over all, I am very fortunate to have made it to the summit given the recurring malady....and feel very very lucky.  I suspect that the added anxiety the pulmonary edema added to my trip will, given enough time, simply add to the satisfaction of the accomplishment......BUT MAN AM I READY TO GO HOME!!!!!!

See you all soon.

More Comments on Summit Rotation

May 17:  Camp 3 is located in the middle of the steep Lhotse Face on one of the few small flat-ish sections overwise dominated by a 60 Degree slope.  The actual location of Camp 3 is so limited that responding to the call of Mother Nature is actually quite dangerous.  There are well-known stories of climbers from previous seasons who have fallen to their deaths while attending to their morning business when they were careless in where they stepped...perhaps the equivalent of an urban legend.  Nevertheless, the location of Camp 3 is quite intimidating.  I spent most of my time in the tent inside my sleeping bag with my oxygen mask strapped to my head.

Enroute to Camp 4, we continued climbing up the steep Lhotse Face, engaged a traverse over to the rocky cliff section known as the "yellow band."  The ascent of this cliff was not particularly difficult, except for the fact that the combination of wearing the oxygen mask (while breathing hard and fast) and goggles caused the goggles to fog up....resulting in having to climb the "yellow band" blind.  The end result was an unnecessary expenditure of excess energy. 

Once above the "yellow band" and the corresponding congestion of climbers, we climbed another steep ice/snow section, followed by another traverse to yet another rocky cliff.....which was surprisingly much easier to climb than it looked (i.e., well established snowy footprints weaved conveniently through/around the protruding rocks).  Once this rocky cliff section topped out, the terrain was essentially flat for the remaining half hour to Camp 4.

Camp 4 is a large flat area known as the South Col and for most of the year is one of the harshest/nastiest places on Earth, primarily due to constant high winds.  However, while we were there, the wind ranged from non-existent to 30 mph...extremely pleasant, albeit unusual weather for the South Col.  Upon arrival, we quickly climbed into our tents, began making final preparations for the upcoming summit attempt, and tried to rest/sleep.

May 18 & 19:  After reviewing the most recent weather forecast, it was decided to begin final preparations at 8:00 p.m on May 18, with the goal of leaving Camp 4 for the summit at 9:30 p.m. that same evening.  So we spent most of the day trying to sleep/rest...and preparing for Game Day. 

Anxiety was running high, and I decided to only take Gu packs/Hammer Gels/Power Gells for food because when frozen, these products remained viscous and therefore edible despite the extreme cold.  This proved to be a solid decision.  I kept the gells in a front pocket of my summit suit and so food was not an issue.  I also placed two 1 liter water bottles in the inside pockets of the summit suit.  The idea was to avoid having to remove the backpack. 

As mentioned before, while climbing I almost immediately had to unzip the front of the summit suit, along with the side pant zips in an effort to avoid over heating (i.e., the irony of having to make an effort to avoid over heating in one of the coldest places on Earth matched up well with my skewed sense of humor).  This proved fortunate because we all experienced a chest freeze.  This was a new experience and was caused by the use of the oxygen mask.  The moist air that we all continually exhaled out the bottom of the mask tended to accumulate and freeze on the chest region of our summit suits/heavy down jackets.  Very quickly, the front zippers were completely frozen and impossible to adjust.  While it was difficult to get to my water bottles, it was still possible....and so the chest freeze was more of an interesting phenomena than a practical problem.

I have no idea how I would reached my water bottles had the front zipper been zipped all the way up.  During the 14-15 hour summit and return, I consumed only one liter of water and six Gu packets.  We only stopped a few times to rest and it felt like we were always pressured to keep moving....a strategy that ultimately proved succesful. 

We were back at Camp 4 by 11:00 a.m., and we piled into our tents and quickly found our sleeping bags.  If I recall correctly, sleep came quickly as we were able to wind down from the summit effort.

May 20:  We descended from Camp 4 to Camp 2.....much more difficult than anyone will ever know.

May 21:  Left Camp 2 and returned to Base Camp passing through the Khumbu Ice Fall for the last time.  As a side note, the Khumbu Ice Fall was well behaved on this day with perfect snow/ice conditions.  The previously devestated areas had been repaired by the "ice doctors" and the condition of the tramped out trail was as perfect as one could want.  Despite the two dozen ladders crossing over the numerous exposed crevasses, the Khumbu Ice Fall was, and always will be, one of my favorite parts of the Everest expedition. 

ANOTHER REMINDER THAT MT. EVEREST CANNOT BE UNDERESTIMATED:  After we reached Based Camp, we began hearing reports that a Spanish expedition, consisting of more than 12 climbers had been caught in 80-90 mph winds that descended on the South Col (i.e., Camp 4) in the afternoon of May 21.  A massive rescue effort was undertaken by several guides who were on the mountain, and despite the heroic efforts, most of the distraught climbers ended up suffering from frost bite.  It is my understanding that two of the climbers actually fell and had additional physical injuries....pretty much of a chaotic disaster.  It was as if they didn't bother to check the weather forecast.  When I hear about this type of encounter, I can only appreciate our guides and the support infracture they created to reduce the associated risk of reaching the summit.  Anyway, best not to be up high when the winds go wild on Mt. Everest.

Details of the Summit Rotation

May 12:  We began our preparations for the next day's departure....only to have the summit rotation delayed based on the actual weather up high, in combination with the available weather forecast.

May 13:  Yet another rest day.  After reviewing the new weather forecast, the decision was made to begin the rotation early the next day.  Spent the evening packing for the beginning of the summit effort.

May 14:  Up at 2:00 a.m.....breakfast at 3:00 a.m.....climbing by 4:00 a.m.  Moved through the Khumbu ice fall, past Camp 1 and onto Camp 2.  Arrived at Camp 2 in the late morning. 

The Kumbu ice had had two major changes since our last visit.  Two days earlier, just as another team was descending, a section had collapsed, forcing a portion of that group to "run" down towards Base Camp...for their lives (...and who were very fortunate to have not been injured).  The second part of the group had to turn around and return to Camp One for the night.....later I spoke to someone in that second group who indicated that the return climb to Camp One was the hardest thing they ever did.  Because of the weather, they had returned from Camp 3 to Camp 2 and had the decided to return to Base Camp...only to encounter the disruption in the Ice Fall.   In my opinion, their guides had seriously misjudged the weather and corresponding weather forecasts and had brought their clients down unnecessarily.  Their guides were part of the group that produced the two seasons of the Discovery Channel shows on Mt. Everest that aired a couple of years ago....and which had mounted their summit attempt from the Tibet side of the mountain.

Unknown to us at the time, at some point during the morning of our move to Camp 2, there was an even larger collapse of the Khumbu Ice Fall.  Over a quarter of a mile section had dropped about fifty feet and utterly eviserated a portion of the existing route.  The normally "fixed line" route had been transformed into a newly created jumble of snow and ice.  When we reached the collapsed area, we decided to continue with our effort to reach Camp 2.  We carefully maneuvered our way through and ended up climbing a 40 foot vertical ice wall (i.e., the main newly created obstacle)....with the help of recently laid ropes and our ascenders.  The destruction of the normal route was most impressive...and a reminder that the Ice Fall is not a place to linger unnecessarily, despite its intense beauty.

The remainder of the move to Camp 2 was relatively uneventful....but I did make note of the lingering hole on the upper part the the snow field where I had fallen into a crevasse on the first rotation. 

May 15:  Rest day at Camp 2.  Organized gear and prepared for moving on up to Camp 3.

May 16:  Up at 3:00 a.m. Breakfast at 4:00 a.m. Moving by 5:00 a.m.  The first portion of the move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is two hours of a relatively slight incline to the base of the Lhotse Face.  While more people have heard of the Khumbu Ice Fall, the Lhotse Face is a much more difficult part of the climb.  The Lhotse face is essentially an ice wall with an approximate 60 Degree slope....and consumed the majority of the day's climb.  As we passed the super steep iced slope inbetween lower Camp 3 and upper Camp 3 (where our tents were located), it was difficult not to recall the second rotation when we had literally climbed past the climber that had collapsed and died in that spot. 

SIDE NOTE.  Since that time, a Japanese climber had also died on the mountain above Camp 4.  For a while he was attached to the fixed line leading to the summit.  The guide climbing with the first wave of our group cut him off the fixed line to save future summitters from having a direct encounter with the deceased.  It is my understanding that the body of the Japanese climber was somewhere near the fixed line when we made our summit attempt.  However, the body was covered by snow by the time we eventually passed by.  The plan was to have the body removed at some point in the near future....before the end of the climbing season.

When we reached Camp 3, we climbed into our tents and put on the oxygen masks and began sucking down oxygen.  I was unprepared for how much better I felt once I began breathing off the oxygen tank.  I had a wonderful night's sleep and took to the oxygen system like a calf to an utter. 

More later.

Comments on Everest Summit Effort

As most of you know, I summitted Mt. Everest a few minutes before 8:00 a.m. on May 19, 2011. 

In our tents at Camp 4, we began preparations on May 18 at 8:00 p.m. and were on the move by 9:30 p.m.  The available weather forecast indicated favorable weather.....yet the wind was blowing about 20-30 miles an hour with snow and spindrift activity....and probably -10 Degrees F.  That being said, I was warm and snug inside my down summit suit and needed to begin venting off excess heat almost immediately after we began....I climb hot.

Based on random circumstance, I found myself climbing in second position directly behind our lead Sherpa.  I had told Sherrie many times that so many people climb Mt. Everest that there is a well worn path through the snow up to the summit.  That understanding proved to be inacurate.  Our lead Sherpa was breaking trail through fresh snow that was somewhere between knee and waist deep....with me in second position....and my Summit Sherpa directly behind.  In second position, it required intense concentration to find the footsteps created by the lead Sherpa....otherwise I felt like I was breaking trail myself (which wasn't true but I sure wasn't walking in established footprints)...which proved to an incredible energy drain.  This was especially true because I was fighting my oxygen mask all day....the direct result being that my goggles would fog up from escaping vapors...which meant I could not see well, if at all.  Eventually I was forced to take off my goggles to ensure that I could find the recently minted footsteps of our lead Sherpa.  This proved to be an essential part of my successful summit...being able to see clearly reduced my energy expenditure down to where it should have been to been to begin with....and I was able to hide my head inside my hood to protect it from the wind and blowing snow. 

A SIDE THOUGHT:  Two years ago, a friend of my attempted Mt. Everest and experienced intense wind and associated spindrift that over time irritated his eyes to the point that he suffered temporary blindness at the South Summit (i.e., a point close to the top....300 vertical feet below and an hour away from the summit) and was forced to turn back.  This knowledge was up front in my mind as I buried my goggleless head inside the hood of my summit suit and continually turned by head away from the blustering wind...all while wondering about the weather forecast that had predicted good weather for the day.

Then something happened that changed the dynamic of the climb in a positive way.  We took a brief rest and, while doing so, a different climbing group passed us....grumbling that we had been moving too slow.  However, as soon as they passed us, they were forced to break trail and began moving even slower than we had been.  In fact, they were moving so slow that our lead Sherpa left our group, went to the front of the pack and began breaking trail for everyone....leaving me in the first position for our group.  It was at this point that I finally found the "well blazed" trail I had been hoping for, where I finally found a good rhthym, began gaining confidence, eventually realized that I was going to make the summit, and at some point knew that nothing in the world was going to prevent me from getting to the top.  As with several major peaks in the past, I eventually felt the summit grab hold of me and simply pull me in....making the last part of the summit climb essentially effortless....a strange and wonderful experience.

About the halfway point, we climbed out of the "bad weather" and the day eventually turned into a windless day higher up on the mountain....and we found the "perfect" climbing day the weather forecast had predicted.   The higher we climbed, the better the weather...leading to the essentially-unheard-of-windless summit day....a rare event for the summit of Mt. Everest.  We were blessed and very fortunate to experience the mountain on such a day.  Three days earlier, a first contigent of our group summitted in 50 mph winds and returned beat up and traumatized (i.e., albeit successful).  It is not uncommon for climbers to reach the South Summit and turn back in high winds because of the dangerous summit ridge leading from the South Summit to the top.  The summit ridge is a narrow pathway, with China on the left (i.e., straight down a couple of thousand feet) and Nepal on the right (i.e., also straight down a couple of thousand feet).  On a windless day such as we experienced.....not a problem.  In high winds, a potentially deadly trek.  Again, a rare "good" summit day.

As an example of how fickle the mountain can be, several groups that left Camp 4 about an hour later than we did, turned around because of bad weather.  The annoying wind and spindrift activity we had experienced had apparently turned into a minor blizzard....and I suspect that the footprints we had established had disappeared in the heavier winds....causing them to have to also break trail....the combination of which can be quite discouraging.  That is where the expericence of our guide team proved to be essential.  They kept pushing us through the early "bad weather," while the later groups turned around....and missed out on a rare perfect summit day.  Those same groups tried a second summit bid the next day, started late, ended up getting behind the next day's wave of heavy climbers, and turned around again, this time due to climber congestion....and ended up not summitting even though both days were "excellent" summit days.

In hindsight, we were one day ahead of the crush of climbers.  There were only two or three major groups summiting the day we went up....and even then it seemed congested.  I can only imagine the frustration associated with even more climbers going for the top and moving at inconsistent speeeds. 

Despite all the preparations, the careful planning, the extraodinary efforts....there are still many many many many ways not to summit Mt. Everest.....I credit the experience of our guides, and their willingness to push on in "apparently" poor conditions with why we had a successful summit bid. 

Someone once asked me how many people have summited Mt. Everest.  If I recall correctly, before I could answer the question, Sherrie piped in and said, NOT VERY MANY.  I believe that is the best answer I have heard,

not very many. 

....more later.

Safe and Sound

Gary is safely down the mountain and back at Base Camp.  Stay tuned, Gary is hoping to update his blog in about a day or two.

CONGRATULATIONS GARY!

At approximately 8am (local time), May19th, Gary reached his goal of standing on top of the world; the summit of Mt. Everest 29,035 ft.  His family and friends are very proud of all the hard work and determination he put into this climb and we all look forward to hearing about his adventures when he returns home.  Thank you to all for your prayers and well wishes! 

Sherrie

SUMMIT DAY!

The day has finally come!  Gary and his climbing team left Camp 4  for the summit of Everest at approx. 9:45pm local time,  (9am PST) May 18th. Stay tuned for updates...

Current Location-6pm May 17th

Gary has just arrived at Camp 4 on the South Col. (elevation 26,300ft).  Everyone is doing well and will now be waiting for the next updated weather report to determine when they will continue up to the summit.  He asked that we pray for the safety of the entire climbing team. 

Departure

The time has finally come to depart Base Camp in hopes of reaching the summit. We are leaving today (May 14, 3am) and plan to spend the night tonight at Camp 2.  I am feeling strong and ready to put everything I have into summiting successfully.  I am hoping I will be able to maintain a steady mental and physical state during this last rotation.  Alas, the time has come! CARPE DIEM!  More later...

Updates

Well, I  have been checked by the doctor here at Base Camp one last time before leaving and have been given the OK to start my summit attempt with the others in the team.  However, later in the day the weather report indicated high winds on the summit so the early morning departure planned will have to be put off for a few more days.  We were fortunate not to have been higher up the mountain (Camp 4) as those climbers have now worked their way back down to wait for the weather to improve.  The weather reports come in the evening so we will all have to wait another 24 hours for any more updates on the wind conditions on the summit. To be continued...

Summit Rotation

Today the team is resting one last day at Base Camp.  Yesterday we familiarized ourselves with the oxygen tanks that we will be using from Camp 3 to the summit. Sometime today, the Base Camp doctor will check my lungs and determine if I will be able to attempt the summit.  If my lungs are clear, I will be leaving early tomorrow with the team and starting our last trip up the mountain.   I am currently feeling pretty good, but anxious to start the last push to the summit of Everest.  ...more later...

Pulmonary Edema Update

Today, we began our return to Everest Base Camp and trekked from Debuche to Pheriche where I was able to see one of the Doctors staffing the clinic.  The Doc listened to my lungs and concluded that the HAPE (i.e., High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) had cleared up and that my lungs were free of all liquid.  This was a favorable development.  Assuming the HAPE does not return, this means I will most likely leave Base Camp with the rest of the clients when the Summit Rotation begins.  I do not intend to take any additional medication until we leave for the Summit Rotation which will ultimately be determined by the weather and corresponding weather forecasts. 

During the trek today, I felt strong and did not experience the debilitating fatigue from a few days ago....which makes sense since the HAPE appears to have cleared up.  Right now, I have a seven day supply of medication that I will begin taking the day we leave on the Summit Rotation in an effort to prevent the HAPE from returning while going for the summit.  My biggest fear right now is an unknown.  Having come down with HAPE once, I have no idea if it will return while I am hanging out in Base Camp waiting for a good weather window.   Hopefully, it will not return and the medication I begin taking at the outset of the Summit Rotation will keep it from returning as we attempt our summit bid. 

In summary, a good medical update.  I am encouraged and will update the blog on my medical condition as it develops.   For now, we are all starting to focus on what it will take to get ourselves into a position for a solid summit attempt.  MORE LATER. 

Pulmonary Edema

During the descent from Camp 3 to Camp 2....in fact, very near Camp 2, I realized that I was beginning to experience extreme fatigue...but at the time just assumed that I was tired from the activity of the past few days.  In fact, I experienced a normal night at Camp 2.

The next day we descended all the way back to Base Camp and again I moved through the Khumbu ice fall at a pace that was slower than the rest of the group....although I did not feel overly tired.  However, that night as I laid in my tent finishing up the second book of the "Girl With the Dragon Tattoo" series, I notice a gurgling sound in my lungs for the first time.  I correctly assumed that this development was not a good one.

The next day at Base Camp was a scheduled rest day, so I went to the Base Camp Doctors and was diagnosed with HAPE (i.e., high altitude pulmonary edima).  The result was the beginning of a five day treatment with Nifedrin (sp?), a drug designed to address this development and which I had brought myself in anticipation of this possibility. 

However, the following day we began our descent to Debuche (i.e., 12,500) for rest and recovery.  The route is not all down hill, and has many inclines that needed traversing.  I was stunned by the extreme fatigue I encountered any time I had to climb up.  I was simply not prepared for the diffculty of maneuvering at high altitude with the equivalent of only one lung.  This was the first time that I began thinking about the possbility of not having a summit day.  In fact, I was so tired at times that I began thinking that I may not be able to return to Base Camp....after all, the return trip would be mostly uphill.  Fortunately, as the day wore on, the drugs appeared to kick in, and the route consolidated into a downward direction, I began feeling a bit better.  Currently, I believe I should be able to return to Base Camp, at a minimum.

Although my case of HAPE is certainly not life threatening, it certainly has reduced the chances of a personal summit bid.  Consequently, I have become very disappointed and anxious about the upcoming next few weeks.   After extensive reflection, I believe the following scenarios are the most likely...with most leading to a result that does not put me on top of Everest:

1.  The fluid in my lungs dry up as a result of descending from Base Camp (i.e., 17,500 feet) to where I am now (i.e., 12,500 feet), in combination with the medication I am taking.  If the HAPE disappears, then I will likely return to Base Camp and leave on the Summit Rotation with the rest of the group.  If this scenario takes place, I will be taking medication to prevent the return of the HAPE, and if it works in combination with the oxygen we will be using at Camp 3 and above, there is a good chance I could have a legitimate summit attempt....all assuming that the HAPE clears up and that there is no short term lung damage that would interfere with the resumption of the climb.  I AM GOING WITH THIS SCENARIO.  VOTE FOR THIS OPTION.

2.  I could get back to Base Camp, visit with the doctors, and discover that the HAPE has not cleared up.  If this happens, and the doctors do not believe it would be safe for me to ascend above base camp, the guides will not include me in the summit team.

3.  Same as two, except that the doctors might conclude that, despite lingering fluid in my lungs, that it would be relatively safe for me to make a summit attempt, in combination with additional medication to prevent the HAPE from getting any worse.  In this case, the guides would allow me to leave Base Camp.  However, even if I were allowed to begin the summit rotation under this scenario, I fear that I would be climbing with a disadvantage....remembering how I felt when trying to climb with the equivalent of something less than two fully operational lungs....and remembering just how difficult it was to simply get to Camp 3 without oxygen.

I believe these are the three main scenarios that I may encounter.  In the end, and as I write this portion of the blog, I realize that it is now more likely that I will not reach the top of Everest, than the odds of actually summitting successfully. 

Currently, I feel fine, am extremely hungry (i.e., and eating well) and am resting up to face the next  few weeks.  I remain optimistic and will see what the immediate future holds regarding the goal of summitting. 

More later. 

Comments on Second Everest Rotation

It has been an interesting past few weeks.  We have completed our second rotation from Base Camp up to Camp 3 and back....we are now down at Debuche (i.e., elev. 12,500 feet) resting before we begin our final ascent of the summit.  We will begin our final ascent the day after tomorrow.

The move from Base Camp up to Camp 3 was memorable....and not because everthing went well.  Day one of the rotation took us through the Khumbu ice fall again....which was as spectacular as the first time.  As mentioned earlier, the ice moves about 1-3 meters a day, so the route is ever changing.  One section that was a spectacularly narrow section with high ice walls during the first rotation was now an on-the-knees-crawling-on-all-fours experience....which on the return was not longer part of the route.  The Khumbu maintenance crew had been forced to create an alternative, and safer passage.  Another section that consisted of a sensational/scary three-section ladder crossing over a crevasse had been filled in by an avalanche during our return.  The Khumbu ice fall will always be one of the highlights of the trip.  At the end of Day One, we had successfully moved up to Camp 1 where we spent the night in an uneventful manner.

Day Two of the rotation was consumed with the move from Camp 1 to Camp 2.  This was relatively uneventful, with my personal highlight being the passing of the still-open-hole-crevasse that I fell into a few weeks back.  In the end, we pulled into Camp II for an entirely different experience than our first visit.  This time the weather was quite pleasant (i.e., albeit freezing cold except for a few hours during the day when the sun shown directly on the camp).  At least there was very little wind and we were able to retrieve and account for most of our gear that had suffered through the wind storm that had leveled Camp 2 right after our first rotation.  We spent the next day resting and preparing for the move up to Camp 3.

Day Four of the rotation was the day we moved up to Camp 3.  It was one of the most interesting days of the climb.  We began by marching from Camp 2 up to the base of the Lhotse face (i.e., an extremely steep and icing section of the climb).  I estimate the slope of the Lhotse face to be approximately 50 degrees.  Right above the base of the Lhotse face, one of our climbers fell into a crevasse and was stopped by the fact he was clipped in to the fixed line.  Unlike my visit into a hidden crevasse a few weeks earlier, this one was fully visible with its glaring teeth exposed for all to see.  It was certainly a dangerous section and the fall was unfortunate....but if someone was to fall into a crevasse, that would be the spot.

As part of the falling in and retrieval process, the fellow client injured one of his arms...near the wrist.  As a result of the injury, the fellow client continued on for a bit, but eventually returned to Camp 2 and on back to Base Camp believing his arm was broken.  The assessment of the injury was hampered by the fact there is no way to take an X-ray of an injury up on the mountain.  The guides didn't believe the arm had actually been broken, but the doctors at Base Camp indicated their belief that the arm was indeed broken.  Therefore, the fellow client packed up and returned to the United States for the purposes of treating the broken arm.  Ironically, when the fellow client returned to Southern California, and had the arm X-rayed, it turned out that the arm was not actually broken....so, after 13 hours back home, it jumped back on a plane and returned.  He is now back at Base Camp, and we should see him in about four days, once we return.  I believe that no on has ever dropped back from the Camp 3 rotation all the way to the United States...only to return for a summit attempt.  He is set to join the summit attempt when it occurs.

The move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 was also a sad day for all the climbers on the mountain.  During the move, a client from one of the other guide services collapsed and died right below Camp 3.  Despite a massive rescue operation, the climber could not be revived and was pronounced dead on the Lhotse face.  It was a solemn experience to slowly climb by the man (...and the rescue effort), knowing that he was most likely going to die.  The forced proximity of the fixed lines to the collapsed climber somehow made the experience very personal.  In the end, we all made it up to Camp 3 and spent the night....trying not to dwell on the tragedy, but it was hard not to....

Day Five, we returned to Camp 2 and spent the night.  This is where my own personal struggles began.  More later.

After spending six days at Base Camp, it is now time to get on with it and begin the second of three "rotations".  This time we will depart Base Camp with the main goal of reaching Camp 3 and spending a night there with no oxygen to "stress the body" so I am told.  By spending an extended amount of time at such a high altitude where oxygen levels are quite depleted in the atmosphere (23,500 ft), the body will begin to increase the red blood cell count which will speed up the absorption rate of oxygen into the blood stream.  A crucial step I can imagine, but that doesn't make it sound any less daunting. 

The first step is to get from Base Camp to Camp 1 where we will again have to traverse the ever-changing Khumba Ice Fall.  One of my biggest goals along with successfully reaching Camp 3 is to not fall into a crevasse... let's hope for the best considering my current track record.  Beginning Thursday, the group will hike to Camp 1 and spend the night, hike to Camp 2 and spend the night, hike around Camp 2 during the next day and spend another night, hike to Camp 3 where we will spend the night without oxygen. Then hike down to Camp 2, spend the night, then hike to Base Camp for a total of 6 days.  This assumes no delays for weather which is rare so the whole trip could take longer.  I am excited and ready to conquer the next leg of this journey.  

Crevasses

Here is a picture of the bottom of the Khumbu ice fall (taken from Everest Base Camp) and a picture of the crevasse I fell into that was hidden by an innocent looking snow field above the Khumbu ice fall (see last image below)....the black eye of the glacier...although you cannot see, the crevasse appeared to dropped off into infinite:

Here are some more pictures of ladders and ladder crossings.  Tha big ladder is the one that we detoured around:

Here is a picture of the Lhotse face and the ridge leading to the summitt of Mount Everest from Camp 1.  The snow field in the foreground is where I fell into the crevasse shown above:



More

The route through the Kumbu Ice Fall requires constant maintenance, and there is a Kumbu Ice Fall Repair Team that fixes problems each day.  On our way down, we encounter this "road construction" crew working on one of the ladders  (i.e., the ladder with one end that engaged the ice only after a climber was over half way across).  They even have reflective vest like the ones worn by Cal-Trans for freeway construction back in Los Angeles.

The trip down through the Ice Fall was long and tiring, especially when I was nursing my left knee.  I slept well last night....perhaps the best night's sleep on the trip...I will keep everyone posted....fortunately, we have a "knee doctor" on the trip and he does not believe there is anything seriously wrong with my knee...just sore...nothing that rest, ibuprofen and Tiger Balm won't adress.  More later...and hopefully pictures.

More Activity During First Rotaion Above Everest Base Camp

Day Three, Four and Five:  We left Camp One and Moved to Camp Two.  The most interesting part of the day was a giant crevasse we encountered with a five ladder extension to get across.  Fortunately, there was a fifteen minute detour around which we all chose to take.  I will post a picture of the ladder crossing in the future...in I can.

During the move to Camp Two, we began hearing rumors that high winds were in the forecast.  That night, the winds arrived and we spent our first night in 40 mph winds....not particularly dangerouse, but certainly noisy and very very COLD.  I am sure there were other note worthy events that took place at Camp Two, but all I seem to recall is the cold and the wind.  We spent most of our time in our tents, inside our sleeping bags.

Day Six:  We started back to Base Camp in heavy winds at about 6:00 a.m.  The trip back to Camp One was fairly uneventful, except for the wind....which wasn't as bad at Camp One.  Going back down the Khumbu Ice Fall was the most interesting part of the day.  The ice actually move about one meter a day.  So most of the ladders were slightly ascue from when we came up.  More later. 

Update after First Rotation

After six days above Everest base camp, we have now returned safely through the Kumbu ice fall and are recovering today by not doing much of anything.

Day One above Base Camp:  climbing through the Khumbu ice fall was pretty specatular.....lots of ladders spanning deep crevasses and step ice routes....a special day...eventhough it was utterly exhausting....it was an important acclimation day.  We spent the night at Camp One...just above the ice fall.  Cold, but no wind to speak of.

The next day we did a short hike up towards Camp Two.  This was an interesting day and I am still trying to recover.  Along the way the route is intermittenly laced with fixed ropes and sections with no fixed ropes.  We were just into one of the fixed rope sections (i.e., approx. 50 feet) when a climber in front of me, and directly in the center of the path was engaged in a clothing layer adjustment and had unclipped for that same purpose.  Being clipped in, I took one mini-step off the main path and partially fell into a hidden crevasse.  My right leg and most of the rest of my body went in....my left leg stayed on top.  I have never been as flexible as that little maneuver required.  My first observation was that the crevasse was sufficiently wide to slip into and that I could not see the bottom.  Even though I was clipped in to the safety line, I do not believe the fixed rope prevented me from falling all the way in....it was my left leg and crampon.  It all happened quite fast and I was able to squirm my way out of the crevasse without assistance from any one else.  However, the event resulted in a twisted left knee which I have been nursing ever since....Tiger Balm helps.

One of my first, and scariest, observations was that one of the other climbers was about one foot away from this previously hidden crevasse and as not clipped in.  If he had been the one to step off the main route, he could have gone deep into the crevasse and a resce would have been under way.  This all took place above the dramatic Kumbu ice fall and on the most pleasant flat snow field one has ever seen....a reminder that the glacier we are working on is still a glacier and full of the dangers inherent with glacier travel.

More later.

Update

Gary called to report he successfully made it through the Khumbu Ice Fall ("without falling") and is currently resting at Camp I.  Today he will do some short hikes and the day after tomorrow the group plans on moving up to Camp II.

Here are a few pictures around base camp...training on an ice wall, ;an
image of Everest base camp.  I have also attached a picture of a
blessing I received from the head monk from one of the local
monasteries..and our first view of the top of Mt. Everest.  Tomorrow we
will enter the Kumbu ice fall and climb for two hours and then return to
base camp.  The following day, we will move through the ice fall up to
Camps I and II.  We will be away from base camp for five days.

 

...yet more training at Base Camp

More training at base camp. Yesterday, we reviewed ice climbing (with
an ascender), repelling down ice cliffs, more ladder crossings and arm
wrap descending, among other skills. Today, vertical ladder ascending
and descending with crampons and ascender....should be fun.

The plan is to leave Saturday for Camp One through the Khumbu ice fall
and all the ladder crossings.

More later.

IMPORTANT NOTE! This message is coming from Base Camp. Please compose a
new message in text format and send to: CLIMB@ALPINEASCENTS.COM with the
climbers' name in subject line. Attachments cannot be accepted at BC.
Please do not send messages directly to aa1@explorersweb.com as it has
caused our system at BC many problems on past expeditions.
Many thanks from the guides & staff at Alpine Ascents.

Training at Everest base camp

OK....it's cold.

We've been out of contact for a while, but it looks like I should be
able to blog from Everest base camp. Text seems to be working. The
ability to send pictures is being worked on, and may or may not become
available.

There is a constant roar of rock and snow avalanches so frequent that
the sound has become background noise. Fortunately the avalanche zones
are no where near the climbing routes.

At night, the temperature drops to between 0-10 degrees F. However, as
soon as the sun comes up, the temperature becomes bearable and is
sometimes pleasant-to-warm. As soon as the sun goes down.....the
temperature drops immediately to something near irritating.

We have been spending time at 17,500 ft. and acclimation seems to be an
ongoing project, especially with the camp head cold being passed around.
I believe I am on the schedule to come down with it in about two days.

Our primary focus for the last two days and for the next few days is
learning how to cross aluminum ladders with crampons (i.e., metal spikes
that attach to climbing boots) that have been laid across crevasses. It
is awkward and difficult, but all the clients are getting better at not
falling off. I am hopeful that by the time we begin crossing deep
crevasses that we have all mastered the technique.

More later....off for more ladder crossing training.

IMPORTANT NOTE! This message is coming from Base Camp. Please compose a
new message in text format and send to: CLIMB@ALPINEASCENTS.COM with the
climbers' name in subject line. Attachments cannot be accepted at BC.
Please do not send messages directly to aa1@explorersweb.com as it has
caused our system at BC many problems on past expeditions.
Many thanks from the guides & staff at Alpine Ascents.

Yesterday we encountered our first snow. The day's trek dropped about 1500 feet, then climbed about 2000 feet, then dropped another 400 feet. We climbed in the...visited another monastery...and descended the last 400 feet on a steep and muddy/slippery trail. No Internet access...so no pictures.

Made the worst and the best investments in my life. Worst: $5 for a shower that was a little warmer than cold...with water pressure so low that even I had to run around to get wet....and a damp dirty towel. Best investment: $4 can of Pringles.

Comments on the Difficulties of Communicating

Now that I am here in Nepal and in the middle of the trek to Everest base camp, it is clear that communicating through my blog will become increasingly diffficult. 

Everest base camp is suppose to have cell phone reception and Internet access.  However, it may not we sufficient to send photographs.  The first plan is to continue as I have been....taking pictures on Sherrie's camera (...still working just fine), downloading the pictures from the camera to my laptop (...still working despite multiple yak convoys), accessing the Internet and downloading the pictures to my blog.

If it turns out that pictures cannot be downloaded to the blog at Everest base camp, another option might be available.  If cell phone access, but not Internet access is available, then I might be able to take pictures on my camera, email the pictures...along with comments to Sherrie and she might be able to post to the blog. 

If neither of these approaches work, then the guide service may have equipment that I can use...most likely email access...which would be my plan B (i.e., posting via Sherrie). 

Anyway, the future of communications through my blog from Nepal will be interesting....More later.

More Trekking

From Namche, we trekked to the village of Thame, the home of our head sherpa....designed to be another day of acclimating.  On the way we passed more rickety bridges and many smaller villages.  As the trade route thoroughfare passes through the villages, the path is typically lined by stone walls.  Another common site the route lined with prayer stones.

Extending out from the villages are plots of land for farming.  Below is a typical way the non-mountainous areas are divided. 

High above the village of Thame (12,464 ft,) is a famous monastery....so we climbed up the mountain side to visit the site....a bit different than the cliche Hollywood representation.  However, no wisdom was being dispensed on the day we were there...but it was still a good acclimation hike.

Namche

Day three was spent around Namche, the same village where we stayed last night.  Engaged in a short acclimation hike this morning...spending the rest of the afternoon cruising the Namche weekly bazar.  Below is a overlook of Namche...not too big but it is the center of trade in the remote Kumbu valley, complete with inflated prices for the transient Trekkers and Everest climbers.

One of the most interesting, and unexpected experiences is the trail/road we have been following.  It is paved almost entirely with stones and reminds of what the famous Inca Trail must have been like.  It is a rudimentary trail on which all supplies of the region passes.  This is the typical mode of transportation, other than the yaks.

The second day of the Trek was my favorite so far...which is not saying much since I have another 58 days or so...but this day was filled with the task of crossing suspension bridges on our way up to Namche (11,300 ft.).  Here are a few pictures of the bridges.

More on Day One Trek

The landing strip at Lukla is about 300 yards with a cliff at one end and a vertical wall at the other end, with an sharp incline to assist the planes in stopping short of the vertical wall.  The inclined runway also helps the planes gain sufficient speed to take off before the encountering the cliff.

It was also a day of crossing suspension bridges.

The buff/mask is to protect our lungs from the dry air, dust and yak dung which can lead to the "infamous" Kumba cough....they tell me the pine trees will disappear soon.

Below is downtown Lukla....a unpaved street lined with shops with lots of yak traffic. 

...along the way to Phakdung (i.e., our first night's stay)....saw lots of mini temples and an more pray wheels

Early flight to Lukla (9000 ft.) and then trekked to Phakding...about the same elevation. Plan to start taking Diamox tonight...it increases the oxygen saturation level in the blood which allows one to sleep and helps with the acclimation process. No Internet access in Phakding (yes...pronounced just like it is spelled) so cannot post pictures.

Kathmandu and Summary of Everest Climb

Toured Kathmandu...received a good luck blessing from a monk...visited big temples, saw lots of pray wheels, monkeys, traffic and smog.

EVEREST SUMMIT PLAN
Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will fly from Kathmandu (approx. 4500 ft) to Lukla (9000 ft.) and will begin the Trek to Everest Base Camp.  Once at Base Camp (17,300 ft. or 17,700 ft...depending upon which T-shirt one buys), we will train and review mountaineering skills for 4-5 days.  Then up through the Kumba Ice Fall (i.e., lots of crevasses and aluminum ladders) to Camp I (19,500 ft.), spend the night, then up to Camp II (21,000 ft.) for a couple of nights.  Camp II will serve as our Advanced Base Camp ("ABC")....then back down to Base Camp. 

After a couple days of rest, we go back up passing through Camps I and II and on up to Camp III (23,500 ft.) where we will spend the night without oxygen.  Most climbers have a difficult/interesting night at Camp III....then back down to Base Camp and below for rest, oxygen and rejuvenation.

Once recovery has been achieved....back up to Base Camp....and back up to ABC (i.e., Camp II) without too much delay.  All focus then turns to weather forecasts.  When a weather window appears to be opening, up to Camp III where we begin using oxygen during the night...then on up to Camp IV (26,300 ft.) where we spend about 24-28 hours resting and breathing oxygen...then around 10:00 p.m. we begin the summit attempt---weather permitting---and should reach the top around 8:00 a.m. if things go as planned (i.e., weather holds, our brains don't blow up, our lungs work properly, we've trained sufficiently, we are strong enough, no one panics, the oxygen bottles aren't empty etc.).  We dance around at the top for about an hour and then return to Camp IV where we spend the night and then down to Camp II...then down to Base Camp...and an all out sprint off the mountain.

More details later....

Kathmandu

Arrived late yesterday in Kathmandu.  Fifteen hour flight from L.A. to Hong Kong; twelve hour lay over in Hong Kong; saw some tourist sites (i.e., the Peak); ate some Dim Sum; and was a beneficiary of a tour of Hong Kong orchestrated by James Collison (i.e., a friend and former CPH attorney--now living in Hong Kong).  Another six hour flight from Hong Kong to Dahka, Bangladesh and another hour flight to Kathmandu.....and my bags showed up. 

All clients are here, also with all their bags, execpt for one....I heard he missed at least one leg of his flight.  Went to bed super tired and slept surprisingly well.

...and whats up with Kathmandu time?  It's thirteen hours and 45 minutes different from L.A. time....I guess I don't really care, and no one seems to understand the origin of the 45 minute offset.

Today, we did the gear check and repacked the bags...again...one destined for a direct trip to Everest Base Camp, the second to follow me on the trek to Base Camp.  It was also communication upgrade day.  I purchased an Internet modem that should allow me to Blog from Everest Base Camp, assuming the Internet is actually accessible from Base Camp like everyone seems to believe. 

Tomorrow, we will tour Kathmandu....more later....lots of polution here.

4 hours of packing

4 hours and a couple of glasses of Australian Shiraz....and I'm ready for Nepal.

Sherrie's Favorite Ecuador Pictures

After reviewing all the photographs I took while in Ecuador, here is the string of Sherrie's Favorites.